南方都市报|米其林指南在中国为何“水土不服”( 二 )


Though always under the spotlight ,the Michelin guide has never gained recognitions from the majority of customers since its entry to China ,let alone chefs and foodies.
The red-covered guide is published by the French tyre manufacturer of the same name. It was first published in France in 1900 ,when there were fewer than 3 , 000 automobiles on the roads but the prospects for car travel were promising. To encourage motorists to take to the road and so boost their tyre-manufacturing business ,brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin decided to print a travel guide.
At first distributed for free ,it included maps ,a how-to on changing tyres ,and lists of mechanics and hotels along the route. The first run of 35 , 000 copies was such a success that guides for Belgium ,Germany ,Portugal and Spain followed. Michelin introduced restaurant listings in 1920. Soon after it started sending out undercover inspectors.
In the early 1930s came the ratings via a star hierarchy that developed into the highly competitive formula for which the guide is perhaps best known today.
Undoutedly ,at first the Michelin guide is expected to introduce the Chinese cuisines to the world. However ,when Shanghai got its first stars in 2016 ,the only one to get the coveted three stars—awarded to only about 100 restaurants—was T’ang Court. The restaurant serves Cantonese food rather than local Shanghainese cuisine.
In 2018 ,Michelin announced Guangzhou stars for the first time. 63 restaurants were listed ,none of which got two or three stars.Four out of the eight restaurants which got one star ,are in luxury hotels ,and expensive.
Unsurprisingly ,the Michelin was overwhelmed with controversies in the city known as serving one of the best cuisines in China: “The French don’t understand the Chinese food” ,“It’s a guide to expensive food ,not good one” …
Some customers and foodies decided to get the first-hand experience ,and most concluded that the Michelin stars are above average but rarely representative of the local cuisines.
Local reaction to the first Michelin Beijing guide in 2019 was almost entirely negative ,even accusing it of “cultural superiority” ,partly because none of the top three awardees serve traditional northern food.
Why Michelin appears to be so ignorant of the Chinese cuisines? Some are inclined to blame the cultural differences for it. After all ,most Chinese users still trust Michelin for recommendations when travelling in Europe and other Western countries.
Others accuse Michelin of accepting too much sponsorship and question its independency. For instance ,its Thailand edition was heavily backed by the country’s tourism authority. In Hong Kong ,funding for Michelin guide was boosted by contributions from a slew of corporate sponsors ,including Evian and Nespresso.
【南方都市报|米其林指南在中国为何“水土不服”】The French tyres can grip the roads in China ,but not the Chinese food lovers…yet.


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